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What Counts as Storm Damage for Home Insurance?

Wind, hail, lightning, and falling trees are typically covered. Storm flooding is not, since that needs separate flood coverage.

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A two-story white clapboard house with black shutters, gray roof, brick chimney and attached two-car garage, with an asphalt driveway, lawn with fallen leaves, and yellow and orange autumn trees under a blue sky.

What decides your claim is the cause of the damage, not the storm itself. Wind tearing off shingles or a tree falling through your roof falls under the wind and hail portion of your policy. That usually carries its own deductible, often a percentage of your dwelling coverage rather than a flat dollar amount. Check your declarations page, since hurricane or named storm events are sometimes listed separately. If the same storm pushed water in from outside, that part sits with flood insurance instead, and an adjuster sorts the two separately.

A wind or hail deductible can run higher than you'd guess

Since it's often a percentage of your dwelling coverage, not a flat amount, what you'd actually pay after a storm varies a lot by policy. Worth comparing before the next one hits.

What happens after you file a storm claim

An adjuster comes out to look at the damage, usually within a week or two depending on how many claims the insurer is handling at once. After a big regional storm, that wait can stretch longer because adjusters are spread across every house that got hit, not just yours. They check the roof, siding, windows, anything you listed, and separate what the wind did from what water did, since those can draw from different parts of the policy or even a different policy entirely.

Photograph the damage before you touch anything, and keep receipts for any repairs you make to stop further harm, like a tarp over a hole in the roof. Most policies require you to take reasonable steps to prevent more damage after the storm, and they reimburse that cost, but skipping it can complicate the claim later. Don't start full repairs before the adjuster sees the damage unless waiting would make things worse. Write down what happened while it's fresh. Note when the storm hit, what you heard or saw, and when you noticed the damage.

The adjuster's estimate and your contractor's estimate don't always match. If yours comes in higher, you can push back with your own documentation, a second contractor quote, or a request for the insurer to send someone else out. This happens often enough after large storms that it's not an unusual step, just one that takes time. Keep every email and call noted, since disputed claims tend to move faster when there's a clear record of what was said and when.

If the damage is bad enough that the house isn't livable, check your policy for loss of use coverage, sometimes called additional living expenses. It can cover a hotel or rental while repairs happen, up to a limit set in your policy. That limit is usually a dollar amount or a percentage of your dwelling coverage, and it's worth knowing before you need it rather than after. Your declarations page will show whether you have it and how much.

What's excluded even when the storm caused it

Not everything a storm sets in motion counts as storm damage for the purpose of your policy. If wind drives rain through a hole it tore in your roof, the water damage that follows is usually covered as part of the same wind claim, since the wind created the opening. But if water seeps in slowly over several storms because of a roof that was already failing, that's wear and tear, and wear and tear sits outside any homeowners policy, storm or not.

Flooding from outside the house, whether it's storm surge, a river overflowing, or water pooling in the yard and working its way in, needs a separate flood policy. This trips people up most with hurricanes, since the same storm can cause wind damage your homeowners policy covers and flood damage it doesn't. An adjuster will look at how the water got in. Through a broken window or torn roof, it's wind. Up through the foundation or in through the yard, it's flood, and a different policy entirely.

Earth movement is another gap. If a storm's wind or heavy rain triggers a landslide or the ground shifts and cracks your foundation, that kind of earth movement is typically excluded even though the storm caused it. Some insurers sell a separate endorsement for it, but it's not part of a standard policy. Downed power lines causing a fire is usually covered as fire damage, but check your policy if a surge from a lightning strike fries your appliances, since some policies cap that kind of claim separately from the rest of your personal property coverage.

Maintenance issues that a storm exposes rather than causes also tend to get denied. An insurer can deny a roof claim if their inspection shows the roof was already old, patched, or past the point where normal wind should have damaged it. This is why documentation matters before a storm, not just after. A roof's age and condition on record can be the difference between a paid claim and a denied one, so if you've had recent roof work done, keeping that paperwork is worth the trouble.

A two-story dark navy house with white trim, a covered front porch with white columns and railing, a gabled roof with an attic window, shrubs along the foundation, and a concrete walkway crossing a lawn.
A dim study at dusk with a wooden desk and lit task lamp beside a multi-pane window, a chair, potted plants, books and a pencil cup on the desk, and tall built-in bookshelves filling the dark wall.

Before the next storm

Find your wind and hail deductible on your declarations page, and check whether it is a flat dollar amount or a percentage of your dwelling coverage. That number decides what a claim actually costs you.

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